AN O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
1 O O
AM O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O
AL O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
2 O O
AK O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O
AJ O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
3 O O
AH O O
O O O
AG O O O
4 O O
AF O O
O O
AE O O O |
|
5 O O
AD O O
|L|
O O
AC O O O |
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6 O O
AB O O
|E|
O O
AA O O O |
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7 O O
Z O O
|V|
B o t t o m
O O
Y O O O |
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BF0 --> 8 O
C <- cut
X O O
|E|
V i e w
BF1 ----> O C
<--- cut
W O O O |
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BF2 ------> O C
<- cut
V O O
|R|
O G <-GND/c.
U O O O |
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O O C <-
cut
T O O
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O O
S O O O |A|
O O O
R O O
| |
O O
Q O O O |R|
O O O
P O O
| |
O O
N O O O |M|
O O O
M O O
| |
O O
L O O O
O O O
K O O
O O
J O O O
O O O
H O O
O O
G O O O
O O O
F O O O
O O
E O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O
D O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O
C O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O
B O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O
A O O
O O O O O O
O O O O O O
O O O O
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
If you have another socket 7 Board than the description may not be correct for your MB, but the socket is the same, so in principe the work for you is the same. But the orientation of the socket on the board could be different!!! Look at the 'picture' carefully. And the naming of the jumpers surely is different. And there are some MB's out there that are prepared for BF2 and you only need to solder in a new jumper connector next to the old clock multiplier jumpers. Check this before you start all the work! If you are good at soldering it's not difficult to solder in a bridge to short BF2 without removing the board from your case!
And Yes, I'm neither known for my good english or as winner for design awards, but this is a technical page!
If you want to use the new K6-266 / K6-300 (or coming K6 3D or K6 3D+) with higher multipliers than x3.5 on your board you have to do some soldering :
There are two solutions for this.
1.) small:
You solder the BF2 pin direct to ground.
Advantage : Its is easier to solder, because
you have to solder just two pins together.
Disadvantage : That disables all multipliers smaller than x4.
2.) BIG:
You add a new jumper to your MB and connect it to the BF2 pin.
Advantage : You can select all 8 possible
multipliers from x2 to x5.5
Disadvantage : Its more work and more difficult.
For normal users I recommend the small solution, because if you run a Pentium, or a Pentium MMX or a K6 < 266 on the board the grounded BF2 pin will be ignored! If you use the K6-266 you can expect it to run at 333 MHz, so the smallest multiplier you need is x4 (with 83 MHz). And that's the x2 setting with BF2 grounded. So there is no real reason to make BF2 jumperable, except you want to run your K6-266 on different speeds with 83 MHz BUS. But of course I can't give you any warranty, that YOUR K6-266 will run at 333 MHz. But my K6-266 runs great @ 4 x 83 MHz and I read some success claims, but no failure claim, yet.
you need:
- A print of this guide. (Sounds silly, but don't
forget to print this before you remove your Board! I know what I'm
talking about :-)
- A good temperature regulated soldering Iron with
a tiny top. (choose ~325° C)
- Resin core solder (High quality acid free electronic
soldering wire)
- A good diagonal wire cutter. A tiny one, that
can cut wire just at the surface of the Motherboard, not 1 mm above!
- A Digital Ohmmeter (with acoustic signal if possible)
- A permanent marker
If you want to add the jumper you also need:
- 30 ga. wire-wrap wire, (also called enamel coated
wire or Lackdraht) that's a wire that is insulated
only by paint.
If you aren't very
experienced with wire-wrap wire, don't even think of using it!
- Or if you can't deal with
wire-wrap wire (like the most of you!) get some other tiny insulated wire.
- A desoldering pump.
- A two or three pin connector, that will act as
a jumper, or just a little switch.
Remove everything from your board (except Tag ram and
jumpers, they can stay on).
Remove all BF jumpers (JP11 and JP12) or you can't
verify with the Ohm meter!
Don't forget to protect against static electricity!
Lay your board IC side down, with CPU in the lower right
corner. (PCI slots will always be north and up in my descriptions!) (For
other Boards: The lever arm of the socket must be on the left side, no
matter where the PCI or something else is!!!)
You see five columns of pins on the right side of the socket. (The side where the voltage regulation sits.) (For other Boards: The opposite of the lever arm of the socket.) Choose the inner column of the right side and count from top 8 pins down. (if you count to 19 you are on the bottom) This is the BF0 pin. Get your Ohm meter and verify if its connected to the middle pin of the BF0 jumper (JP11 or JP12). Then go one pin right and down (diagonal). This is the BF1 pin. Check it with the Ohmmeter again! Then go another step right and down. This is the BF2 pin! Mark it with the pen.
Now you have found it! Start again with counting, and checking with Ohmmeter the BF0 and BF1 pins!
If you have decided to make the small solution the rest is very simple if you are good at soldering:
Solder a connection to the pin another step right and down. Check with Ohmmeter for ground connection of this pin first!
Go to check it now!
I prefer soldering, because if its done by an experienced person its the securest, tidiest and easiest solution, but I read about two other ways to do the connection and I mention them here, but I don't recommend them!
1.) Use a conducting glue called silver vanish to make the connection. That takes some hours to dry and you can remove it by scratching it away. Be very careful and check twice for any unwanted shorts!
2.) You can stick in a short tiny wire into the socket to make the connection before you stick in the CPU. Because the CPU Pin is round and the connector in the socket is square and not on all 4 directions the connection may not be good and because the wire might spring out when you insert the chip I really can't recommend this method.
If you have decided to add a jumper go on here!
Get the wire cutter
and begin carefully cutting the pin directly right of the BF2 pin directly
on the surface of the Motherboard. And the one above and the one under
it. Then cut of the next two pins, so that the BF2 pin is 'free' from the
right side. This cuttings are not absolute necessary, but will make soldering
easier!
Get the wire and remove the isolation
from the end and solder it carefully to the BF2 pin.
Now you have to decide where to put the jumper!
I decided to solder it into the soldering holes for a capacitor that is left open above the CPU socket. I resoldered carefully the holes and checked with the OHM Meter which one is connected to the ground. There I put in one pin of my jumper. I bend the other one to the side, put the wire-wrap wire through the other hole and soldered it carefully to the bended jumper pin. (After I checked everything I glued it to the board, because only one pin soldered to the MB didn't fixed it well and I also glued the wire to the board and in the hole, to protect it from damage.)
On my 'new' rev 2.1 T2P4 (with modified voltage regulation to support split voltage CPU's!) I decided to make a new jumper bank for all BF jumpers (and If I had a dip switch that evening I surely had uses it instead!) because original jumpers are hidden under my new voltage regulation heatsink. I just connected one row to the ground and connected one jumper pin to each BF pin. It's not necessary, but it looks nice, so I made two-position-jumpers (= three pins) with one pin not connected. Then I glued it onto the board.
If you aren't able to cope with wire-wrap wire you have to find your own solution, but because I recommended this soldering only for experienced people, this should be no problem for you!
Maybe your wire is tiny enough to go through the hole, too. Or put it around the edge of the Board.
But never ever think of making a hole bigger or put in a new hole! MB's have nearly half a dozen layers in the board and damaging one little wire may be the end of your MB!
Now you think you are ready? NONSENSE!
Look carefully at the soldering:
- Does it look fine?
- Are there any short circuits?
- Is there something flux (soldering
fluid) left?
- Is the wire o.k. ?
- Is the jumper o.k?
- Is everything fixed right?
Turn the board around, solder side
down, CPU socket in left down corner. (For
other Boards: The lever arm of the socket to the right side.)
- Open socket.
- Start in the inner row of left
side from top, 8 steps down and put in some piece of tiny wire. (The pin
of a ¼ Watt resistor will fit fine).
- Go one pin left and down and
stick in a wire.
- Go another pin left and down
and stick in a wire.
- Close the socket.
- The wires must build a line that
is directing to the lower left corner of the board.
- Check the inner one with the
ohmmeter. It must have connection to the middle pin of BF0 jumper! (JP11)
- Check the middle one with the
ohmmeter. It must have connection to the middle pin of BF1 jumper!
(JP12)
- small solution :
Check the outer one. It must have connection direct to ground!
-BIG SOLUTION :
Check the outer one. It must have connection to a pin of your new BF2 jumper!
Check the ground connection of your new jumper!
If all checks are o.k. you done it!
Resulting multipliers : (not proved yet!)
x JP11
JP12 BF2
1.5 1-2
1-2 off non
MMX Versions only!
2.0 2-3
1-2 off
2.5 2-3
2-3 off
3.0 1-2
2-3 off
3.5 1-2
1-2 off
4.0 2-3
1-2 grounded
4.5 2-3
2-3 grounded
5.0 1-2
2-3 grounded
5.5 1-2
1-2 grounded
I'm able to overclock my K6-266 to 4 x 83 MHz.
Even at 2.1V it was stable until I stopped my CPU fan
and the temperature rised from normal 40°C to 57°C.
At the normal 2.2V it was stable until it reaches 65°C.
And that won't happen until my room temperature exceeds 45°C. But I'm
sure I will fail before room temperature reaches 45°C! :-)
I have read some posts claiming 333 with the K6-266 and mine will do even undervoltaged, so it seems AMD has a very good production line and lots of K6-266 will do 333 MHz. But that's only a suggestion of mine, and of course no guarantee is given!